Ceramics are better, in particular because This case since that stuff cannot take the heat. Goose down or coyote fur, however, will not do in You protect the areas not supposed to coolĭown too fast with a thermal insulator. That acts as a barrier or thermal insulator, decreasing the heat flow from your warm body Getting out from your warm house into a very cold winter day. Your steel is exactly what you do for yourself when you don't want to cool down too quickly More of the outside than what you have in mind. There is a what is called a hardness depth, after all.īlade into cold water thus will never turn the inside hard and brittle but quite possibly Outside cools down more quickly then the inside. Thicker parts unavoidably cool more slowly then thinner parts, just as the Given the cross-sectional shape of your blade that will happen automatically Just quench - rapidly cool - the edge part and allow the rest You only want the edge to be ultra-hard, compromisingįor the unavoidable brittleness, but the rest should not be brittle. Whole tamahagene of your kobuse style blade to that kind of hardness plus the concomitantīrittleness would not be so good, however. Read it up! Quenching a 1% carbon or so tamahagane steel easily brings you in the 800 Vicker's hardness region. Instead of medium hard pearlite plus soft ferrite. "The Forging of a Japanese Katana", June 14 th, 2004Ĭooling steel with at least 0.3 % of carbon or so produces very hard and brittle martensite Source: Michael Morimoto, Colorado School of Only the outer layers will be affected and if you file them off later you got a problem Since you can't remove much material after quenching. You actually curve the blade a little less than desired since the quenching producesīefore you quench, you must semi-finish the blade by filing and grinding You fire weld the package and hammer it out into the desired shape of the blade. Tamahagane into a "V" shape and then inserted the softer steel into the gap. Work but the Japanese did it in a slightly different way. Then laminateĪ somewhat wider piece of hard steel between two pieces of softer one. Two from hard steel and one from soft / medium. No European smith around 1300 or even 1000 plus years earlier would I) do not really know how to do that and as far guessing goes, you can do that yourself. I won't challenge you now to make a "Soshu Kitae". Some of them are arguablyĪpocryphal, like Soshu-kitae" writes an unidentified but obviously knowledgeable Scientific understanding of metallurgy after all), traditionalism, etc. Were the result of experimentation, various pseudo-scientific theories (there was no deep Other construction methods are relatively rare and "The vast majority of historical blades were kobuse construction (softĬore, hard jacket), followed distantly by san mai (hard edge, soft spine, medium jacket),įollowed very distantly by maru (solid). Is better than one from Cezanne or Monet. Than the "soshu kitae" or "gomai" is like asking if a Renoir painting Asking if the "orikaeshi sanmei" kind of piling is better Not to mention that I would find it hard toīelieve that the complex "Soshu Kitae" way of piling offers any advantage relative I just couldn't find any proof of this claim. Japan, supposedly made the most complex sword blade, soshu kitae. Masamune (c.1264≡343), the most accomplished smith of Source: Basic drawings of this are all over Three grades of steel according to Japanes sources Or believe in Japanese mythology, that is. One outside, of course, but there are many ways you can do that - if you are a Japanese smith How are you going to pile the ingredients for your blade? The softer steels inside, the hard High, medium and low carbon steel and now you would use these blocks to produce a new katana You had already made three blocks of well-faggoted But as long as the head stayed on life was good. He used that extremely sharp sword you made for him for doing Peasants) but one above the merchants and bankers! Ain't that nice? Of course, your localĭaimyo or overlord would chop your head of in less time than it takes to say f*** if you just You were on level three of the social ladder (level 1 were the samurai, level 2 the You are not seen as an undistinguished dirty craftsman but as an accomplished expert and artist, In contrast to your European counterpart, You're a Japanese sword smith around 1500 or so.
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